Acceuil à Aix

The first thing I did when I arrived home in the Berkshires was bake a pie.  What was the first thing I did when I arrived in France?  You guessed it; I baked a pie.  I’m still waiting to hear how it turned out, though, because I am a fly-by-night pie baker and I left Aix before tasting the pie.  I actually left before it was out of the oven!  You may call me an irresponsible baker if you wish.  I’m glad to say, however, that I left it in capable hands.

Those hands belong to my hostess, Milne, who I met on the bus from the Marseille airport to Aix-en-Provence (cover your ears, kiddies! don’t talk to strangers!)  She was standing behind me in line as I tried to decipher the bus driver’s Marseillais accent, and as soon as we sat down she politely asked “parlez-vous l’anglais?” and that was the beginning of a beautiful visit to Aix-en-Provence, and I believe a beautiful friendship.

Not only did I get to sleep for twelve hours in the fresh-air-filled former kitchen of a hôtel particulier built in the 1600s, but Milne also showed me around Aix the next morning, taking me to two farmers markets overflowing with produce and cheese and mushrooms and really good smeeellls from the direction of the roasting chickens.  Milne treated me to madeleines and a cannélé made by Christophe… and we bought apples for the pie, Grannys and Chanticlercs.

On the route between markets we stopped in at a chocolatier, where we got some chocolates filled with caramel au beurre salé—I had to compare my salted caramel to the French version, after all.
When we got back to Milne’s house all I had to do was prepare the apples and put the pie together, since I had already made the crust and caramel and rolled out the crust.  Even all this preparation didn’t allow me the hour for baking and the three hours for cooling that I would have needed in order to get a taste. I was sad that I didn’t get to see how Four & Twenty Blackbirds’ salted caramel apple pie turns out with French ingredients, but I had to start the next phase of my journey by catching a 2:00 bus to Digne!


About adventuresofaleece

Senior Project Manager at The Working World, a non-profit CDFI with an investment fund that focuses on loans and equity investments for worker-owned cooperative businesses. Recently graduated with an MA in Urban and Environmental Policy and Planning from Tufts University. Formerly Executive Director of the BerkShares local currency program in Western Massachusetts and Director of Programs at the Schumacher Center for a New Economics. Former line cook and prep cook at Txikito Cocina Vasca. Writer, teacher, and traveler.
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10 Responses to Acceuil à Aix

  1. Kayla says:

    Alice I love you! You’re so adorable, I love your Alice pie-baking ways. I’ll send you the gifts and note that I’ve had forever soon, now that I have your address. Can’t wait to read more and see more pictures! Your blog is very well written and nice to read. Talk to you soon my dear, hope you’re having fun, you are always missed.

    ton amie,


    P.S. We made ricotta zucchini pasta tonight and I was thinking of you 🙂

  2. Melissa says:

    It’s beeOOOtiful!!! Glad to see you made it to France and aren’t wasting any time spreading the joy. You look like you belong there. But don’t stay forever because the pie shop misses you.

  3. Amy Rudnick says:

    That’s what I’ve always admired about Europeans — meeting someone on a bus and taking them home for two days! Love it! We had your mom’s version of your pie at dinner the other night — deelish. Looking forward to the next installment of the Adventures of Aleece.
    xo, Amy

  4. Oh, what a delicious post! As a friend of Milne’s, I can tell you for certain that you and your pie will never be forgotten. Well met, Aleece and Milne!

  5. ellen says:

    hmmm, maybe you need a photo stylist… Hey I know one who would love to travel with you and style your food shots! I wish.
    I am very excited to read your blog and I neeeed the photos.
    Thanks Babe.
    Love, Mom.

  6. Julie Fox says:

    What a wonderful start Alice!! Amy sent me the link. Keep talking to strangers and I eagerly await your next entry!

  7. Diane Bennett says:

    Glad you made it back to France safe and sound and already making pies! I can’t wait to read about the future adventures.

  8. Madeleine Maggio says:

    Beauuuutiful photos Alice! On both entries.
    I can’t wait to talk to you!
    your sis

  9. Pingback: Aix-en-Provence, France

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